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Bella Vista and Bentonville in Early Spring

April 19, 2014

Next weekend Wendy and I hope to work in the yard and will be chaperoning at the prom, so this weekend we were determined to escape the area for a springtime walk. I figured the dogwood trees would be lovely on the trails at the Crystal Bridges Museum in Bentonville, Arkansas, where we could also view the William S. Paley collection of “modern art” which, given that the former head of CBS died in 1990 at the age of 89, meant mostly early 20th century works focused on French “Modernism”.

Downtown Bentonville

Our first stop was in downtown Bentonville, driving down its Central Avenue bracketed in beautiful redbuds and dogwoods, for the always-yummy four-cheese ravioli at Tavola Trattoria. The nearby alley had a sign which age had rendered ironic, in keeping with how “modern” the Paley collection would be, and was graced by a nice painting by Karrie Evenson. We enjoyed the tulips in the square, and Wendy had great fun perusing the thousands of images in a mural created from drawings by Bentonville schoolchildren displayed on the sides of a couple of buildings. The themes were excellence, respect, and service.

Bentonville Mural (click image for slideshow)

Dogwood Trail at Crystal Bridges

Dogwood Trail

We parked at the museum and began walking northward on the Dogwood Trail along the eastern edge of the property. The trail lived up to its name, with dogwood blooms evident all along the one mile walk, layers of blooms scattered amidst the other still-bare trees. We turned back south to reach the museum via the Rock Ledge Trail.

Paley Exhibit and More at Crystal Bridges

After stowing Wendy’s bag and my requisite Tilley hat in a locker downstairs, we walked up to the lobby and the Eleven restaurant, where I was charmed to see they have removed the unappetizing Alphabet Soup sculpture by Claes Oldenburg, which used to sit at the restaurant entrance. They have thankfully replaced it with the beautiful Hanging Heart (Gold/Magenta) by Jeff Koons, which now hangs from the high ceiling of the bridge room. It created a lovely backdrop for a picture of Wendy as we enjoyed soft drinks after our warm walk.

Wendy and Hanging Heart

Koons is known for his kitsch, leading the wonderful critic Robert Hughes to say his work was “so overexposed that it loses nothing in reproduction and gains nothing in the original.” But Hanging Heart seems a suitable adornment for the restaurant; I’ve similarly enjoyed the museum’s Love sculpture by Robert Indiana, which is subject to similar criticism for how he has repeatedly recycled that motif, but which doesn’t diminish its attractive appeal. Winter before last I used Indiana’s sculpture at Crystal Bridges to represent the love of friendship with my dear friend Carrie and last spring Wendy and I celebrated our new love with it. I think of these works as “applied art” which make the museum more welcoming and encourage visitors to engage positively both with art and with each other.

The Paley collection had a work which caught my eye, The Seine at Chatou by André Derain, and the adjacent exhibition of American Modernists who were influenced by the European artists had one work by Marsden HartleyMountains No. 22, which is an echo of Cézanne, and a marked contrast to his Madawaska, one of a series of homoerotic paintings he made of a French-Canadian boxer. In one case, Hartley uses golden browns and in the other bright red to draw one’s attention.

The Seine at Chatou

 

Motive of Space and Form – A New Jersey Village (Montville)

Red Flower by Joseph Stella stood out with its striking use of color and strong symmetries. Glare from the museum lighting forced to me to shoot it off-axis, which is an interesting way to battle with those symmetries. My favorite work in this exhibition was Motive of Space and Form – A New Jersey Village (Montville) by Oscar Bluemner. The bold red central building reminds me of Alley Mill in Missouri.

Wendy predicted I would like Ashe’s House, Charleston, South Carolina by Edward Hopper when she spied it in the final gallery at the exhibition, and of course she was right. I’m just disappointed that I forgot to locate and enjoy his Blackwell’s Island, which the museum recently added to its permanent collection.

In the main galleries they had a watercolor exhibit, where John Singer Sargent‘s Nicola D’Inverno Fishing on the Val d’Aosta was a highlight. The modern art gallery had reinstalled Theodore Roszak‘s 42nd Street (Times Square)which we liked for its bold lines and cubist perspective.

Nicola D’Inverno Fishing on the Val d’Aosta by John Singer Sargent

Springtime at Crystal Bridges

After enjoying views of the grounds in springtime from various vantage points, we retrieved our belongings and exited the museum, finding a skink along our meandering path up to the parking lot, enjoying the dogwoods near and far as well as Roxy Paine‘s Yield. I wanted to hop into a cute Mazda convertible in the parking lot, but instead my trusty old Camry took us north to Bella Vista to visit the Mildred B. Cooper Memorial Chapel.

Cooper Chapel at Bella Vista

Bella Vista is an affluent retirement community focused on eight golf courses and other recreational amenities managed by the homeowners’ association. It was the first of several similar developments by John Cooper, whose wife Mildred is memorialized by a public chapel which I’d discovered in TripAdvisor.  A glimpse of the chapel on my iPhone was enough to recognize it as another Fay Jones work, echoing his wooden Thorncrown Chapel which I’ve visited many times near Eureka Springs, as well as his Powell Chapel which I visited two years ago near Kansas City. Thorncrown is particularly striking with its crossed supports, contrasting to the curving metal forming the gothic arches of the Cooper chapel.

Dogwood at Cooper Chapel

Out front was a nice dogwood which was covered in blooms, and the cool interior with its soft music was a welcome respite from the hustle and bustle of Crystal Bridges. I liked the lightness of its curving supports, with their thrusting but playful ribbons of steel. The airy design belies the 31 tons of steel holding up all of the glass. The main arch at the end of the chapel invites one outside, and we circumnavigated the structure obscured by the surrounding forest. The view upon leaving a place is perhaps as important as the view in approaching it, and both the chapel and its pathway dogwood shone in that respect.

Cooper Chapel

Blowing Springs Trail

Blowing Springs Trail Track

We needed another walk before contemplating dinner, and happily I discovered a listing for the Blowing Springs mountain bike and hiking trails. I enjoyed but was not wowed by the Tanyard Creek trail I trod in Bella Vista back in November 2009, and was glad to find Blowing Springs a peaceful walk along a forest ravine on its South Upper and Lower Trails. Someday I want to return here to hike the northern trails in this system.

We parked and set out uphill, soon to be rewarded with a sweeping view of the bluff across the small ravine. Several mountain bikers passed during our walk, all of whom were quite polite and patient with us clodhoppers. The south side of the lower trail had some nice rocks, while the north side of the south lower trail featured a deep notch in the bluff, which I will affectionately if not accurately consider a cave, and a tree which grew to encompass the top edge of the rock layers. Up a nearby rise are the graves of Mary and Joseph Mills, who settled the land back in 1868.

The “Cave” at Blowing Springs

The south upper trail had its own woodsy charm as it led us back above the bluff line, past the curving bridge on the lower trail. We enjoyed more dogwoods and a occasional redbud. Sharp-eyed Wendy spied a rock with crystals, following up on her find at Onyx Cave the week before.

This 1.5 mile walk was a nice end to our day, to be followed by a tasty meal at Abuelo’s back in Bentonville. Sadly, I completely forgot to eat at the local Applebee’s to see the mural they created from my photos for its interior…that must await a future trip.

Click here for a slideshow from this day trip

 

 
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Posted by on April 20, 2014 in art, day hike, photos, travel

 

Firetowers

April 13, 2014

Wendy and I escaped to the Ozarks on Saturday, enjoying a 4.5 mile hike on the Firetower Trail at Roaring River State Park and taking a drive along the nearby Sugar Camp Scenic Byway.

Firetower Trip (click image for slideshow)

Our visit to Roaring River began near the base of Seligman Hill with lunch at the Emory Melton Inn at Roaring River State Park, enjoying the beautiful redbuds out front. Our meal prepared us for a 4.5 mile loop hike on the Firetower Trail.

Firetower Trail Loop

Small CCC Firetower

We drove over to the Nature Center to start the hike, noting a large woodpecker hole in a tree at the start of the trail just behind the center. Soon we reached the trailhead near Camp Smokey. I had chosen to have us ascend the steepest section of trail first, climbing to the top of the ridge where we were grateful for the now-level trail.  Eventually we reached the old CCC firetower, which has been dwarfed by the surrounding trees for many decades. Wendy posed at the base and was willing to climb this diminutive tower before returning to the ground to shoot me leaning over from atop the tower.

Dogwoods were in bloom all along the trail, and Wendy picked various flowers, happily pressing them into a book as we made our way around the park. We enjoyed the peaceful walk alongside Roaring River to complete our loop back to the Nature Center.

Dogwood

Sugar Camp Firetower

Next we drove up Seligman Hill to enter the forest and turn off on the Sugar Camp Scenic Byway. We made the requisite stop along the old forest road at the Sugar Camp Firetower, a classic Aermotor tower. A bunch of pickups with trailers for 4-wheel all-terrain vehicles were parked at the base. I knew Wendy would not want to climb the big old tower and the last time I ventured to the top its cab was rather decrepit, so we stayed on the ground.

We then drove on to the unmarked Onyx Cave Overlook, which now offers a view of the Eagle Rock Christian Conference Center down below. Wendy sketched the view and then we made our way down the steep trail across the road to little Onyx Cave. The narrow passage off the entrance has been barred off for years, so instead of spelunking I bushwhacked my way downslope for panorama of the hillside.

Onyx Cave on the Sugar Camp Scenic Byway

Wendy was very glad we trekked down the cave trail, despite our failure to wear proper footwear, because she found a lovely stone with crystals along the trail. That was a far more impressive find than anything we managed to scrounge up at the crystal mine in Arkansas over Spring Break.

Wendy’s find

I thoroughly enjoyed the slow drive along the old gravel forest road, admiring the farms down below. We spent the night in Cassville, but the next time we visit Roaring River for hiking, we’ll try staying at the Emory Melton Inn in the park.

The next day we returned to Bartlesville, driving along US 75 to see very impressive clouds above Jarrett Farm. Little did we know that the same storm system was even then sweeping over Caney to the north, with powerful winds stripping off shingles from the roof of the home of our friends, the Hendersons. Nature was displaying both its beauty and its power on this spring afternoon.

Storm clouds over Jarrett Farm

Click here for a slideshow from this trip

 
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Posted by on April 13, 2014 in day hike, photos, travel

 

Buds and Blossoms on the Elk River Trail

April 6, 2014

I hiked a bit of the eastern end of the Elk River Trail today with the Hendersons; Wendy was under the weather. I’d hoped to hike at Table Mound, but the overlook was closed, so we drove down to the dam to clamber about on the end of the Elk River Trail.

We found the trees at the trail head all decked out, with blossoms adorning their branches.

Springtime (click image for slideshow)

Someone had replaced the board across the creek with a new set of boards with concrete abutments. The Hendersons posed for me in the rock corridor on top of the ridge. Along the trail we saw several nice red buds and blossoms on the trees.

Blossom

Lake Shore

We’d had a heavy lunch at Brothers Railroad Inn in Independence and the forecast said rain was likely in the mid-afternoon. So when we reached the gravel road from the dam, we took it down to the lake shore, where I found a tree that made a nice benchWe then bushwhacked amidst the driftwood for awhile and followed a deer trail back to the road and walked alongside roadways back to the trailhead with its welcoming blossoms

It was a short but enjoyable early spring walk, and the Hendersons led me back to Caney along old roads through Elk City and Havana, where we passed by John’s mule, which he will be riding at Robbers Cave next month.

Back Roads to Caney

Click here for a slideshow from this day hike

 
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Posted by on April 6, 2014 in day hike, photos, travel

 

Spring Break 2014: Mount Nebo

March 20-21, 2014

The final stop on our Spring Break 2014 vacation was Mount Nebo, a favorite of mine for its vistas on all sides.  I have visited it several times and hiked all of its trails, but I had never stayed overnight up on the mountaintop. This time I rented the Overlook Cabin #61 for Wendy’s first trip to this state park, and it did not disappoint. We made two short hikes along the north and west edges of the mountain during our stay.

Mount Nebo (click image for slideshow)

Roadrunner at Sunset Point

At the visitor center we found a convenient stand for a timed photo at the overlook above Lake Dardanelle with Arkansas’ Nuclear One in the background. We then walked the Rim Trail over to Sunset Point. Wendy found a heart rock along the way, and we enjoyed watching and listening to a roadrunner which was hopping about the edge of the bluff, eyeing us warily as we struggled to imitate its call.

We then drove over to Sunrise Point, where I posed out on a rock ledge and admired the cones in a pine tree before charging back up the slope to where Wendy sat, guffawing at my energetic style.

Our cabin was perfectly perched along the Rim Trail on the southwest edge of the mountain with its wonderful patio providing a gorgeous view of the sunset with a pine tree in the foreground.

Our Cabin at Mount Nebo

Sunset view from our cabin

Stone Bridge on the Rim Trail

In the cabin kitchen I noticed that the refrigerator doors opened inconveniently and was commenting to Wendy on how simple it would be to reverse them as I opened the freezer door. An ice pack I had placed in the freezer door slipped and pulled a support right out of the door, and I clutched at the falling items frantically, making a huge racket and sending her into gales of laughter at Mr. Fix-It’s dilemma.

The last day of our Arkansas vacation was overcast as we made a loop on part of the Summit Park and Rim trails, climbing up to the stone bridge to cross it and reach Lovers’ Leap. We enjoyed our brief stay at Mount Nebo so much that we pledged to return.

Arkansas was a great choice for our Spring Break and I’m sure we’ll both be daydreaming about it for awhile.

Lovers’ Leap

Click here for a slideshow from our stay at Mount Nebo

Spring Break 2014: Petit Jean

 
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Posted by on March 23, 2014 in day hike, photos, travel

 

Spring Break 2014: Petit Jean

March 18-20, 2014

The second part of our Spring Break trip in Arkansas was spent at Petit Jean State Park. I’ve hiked all of the trails at the park over multiple visits, but this was the first visit to the park for Wendy as well as for John Henderson. During our stay we would hike above and along Cedar Creek north of Mather Lodge, visit the various overlooks, and make brief hikes to Rock House Cave and the Bear Cave Area.

Petit Jean Hikes (click image for slideshow)

We had a lunch and two breakfasts at the historic Mather Lodge, which was recently expanded with a new lobby and restaurant which follow the same design as the newer lodge at Mount Magazine. I’m glad that they preserved the adjacent original lobby and dining room of the lodge, with their 80-year-old furnishings.

Trek Along Cedar Creek

Wendy and I posed at the Cedar Creek Overlook at the lodge, with John dramatically looking ahead at our hike northeast from the lodge to the Cedar Falls Overlook, where Wendy would spot some interesting orange lichen. At the overlook, the others wisely stayed behind the barriers while I ventured out onto a cantilevered rock slab.

Cedar Falls

 

Cedar Falls

Besides the dramatic views of the large falls, I saw a tiny lizard and tiny blossoms along the trail, with Betty insisting Wendy and I stop for a photo op on a convenient limb. We later reached the side stream that marked the beginning of the Cedar Creek Trail loop and I had the Hendersons pose on the first bridge crossing the creek before we began forging upstream on the opposite side of the creek.

Near the northeast end of the trail Wendy posed for me beneath a massive tumbled slab, and then we reached the upper bridge leading back across the creek. Here the trail turns back to follow the creek downstream, but a narrow upstream path leads to the cozy and secluded Honeymoon Creek Cabin where Wendy and I stayed during our visit to the park.

We returned to the side creek and then made it back to the lodge, with my fellow hikers saying the rough terrain made it feel like far more than a three mile journey.

Red Bluff Drive & Overlooks

The next morning we drove across the Davies Bridge to the Red Bluff Drive, stopping to see the turtle rocks and explore Rock House Cave.

Rock House Cave

We then visited the overlooks on the western edge of the mountain plateau.

CCC Overlook

Later we would drive over to Stout’s Point on the eastern edge of the mountain for the sweeping view of a bend in the Arkansas River below.

Stout’s Point

Bear Cave Area

Bear Cave Area

We drove over to the Bear Cave Area, where I made two descents down the steep slope for a look out over Cedar Creek, with Wendy coming down to join me at one of the overlooks. We saw the caves and slots amidst the rock formations, and we had Betty do her Mary Katherine Gallagher tree-hugging pose.

On a later visit, I’d follow the tip from former student Benjamin Rhodes to locate the steps carved into the rock to provide access to the top of the formation. The narrow “needle” slot through the formation from the parking area has a blind lead off to one side where you can find the steps. The others waited below while I climbed the steps to the top for the view of Mather Lodge in the distance, shooting a 360-degree panorama video from the top.

View from atop the Bear Cave formation

Cedar Creek

The various small waterfalls along Cedar Creek were beautiful and relaxing, as was the sunset Wendy and I enjoyed at the Mather Lodge.

Sunset viewed from Mather Lodge

Off to Mount Nebo

After the Hendersons departed Petit Jean for a visit to Van Buren and the drive home, Wendy and I visited the Palisades Overlook on the western edge of the mountain, where we could see Mount Nebo looming in the distance. That would be our beautiful final stop on our Arkansas trip.

Palisades Overloook

Click here for a slideshow from this portion of the trip

< Spring Break 2014: Coleman’s Crystals

 
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Posted by on March 22, 2014 in day hike, photos, travel, video

 
 
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